Thursday, April 23, 2009

All Grain Brewing

Last night Leah and I brewed our first all grain beer! One thing is for certain. All grain brewing is a lot more fun then just brewing extract!! You definitely get a sense of actually creating your beer with all grain rather then just the "beer in a can" method of extract. While both have their pros and cons, I'm happy that we switched.





The Mash

Everything is Ready to Go!



Mashing In

The first step to begin the mash is the heating of the strike & tun preheat water. Instead of trying to preheat the mash tun, add the strike water, and then try to adjust to proper temp, I heated the strike water about 15° warmer then what it should be. The extra heat will then go to preheat the mash tun. Once the strike water has cooled to it's proper temperature (169°), we began the mash in (left). Beersmith, which by far is the most handy tool a brewer could have, calculates my strike temperature for me, by taking into account how much the grain will cool the water to the proper mash temp (154°).


The grain absorbs and cools a large amount of the water in the tun, as we mixed it in. My mash temperature for this recipe is 154°, and the grain cooled my water down to only 156°, so I ended up having to add a bit of cooler water, and then stir it up again to cool it by those last 2 degrees. The mash time for this beer is 60min. The round cooler worked perfectly, and only dropped 1° for the entire mash!


The Sparge




Collecting the First Runnings

After the 60 minute mash is complete, it is time to rinse the grains. The reason you need to rinse the grains is because there are large amounts of residual sugars that are stuck to the grains. If you don't rinse these off, you end up losing them.

The sparge technique we chose is known as "No Mashout, Double Batch Sparge".

From John Palmer's How to Brew, which is the most extensive online resource for home brewers, "Mashout is the term for raising the temperature of the mash to 170°F prior to lautering. This step stops all of the enzyme action (preserving your fermentable sugar profile) and makes the grainbed and wort more fluid." Instead of doing a mashout, we are using hotter then normal sparge water (180°). This will raise our mash temperature and stop our enzyme action, while at the same time saving us a step.


Leah Mixing the Mash/Lauter Tun

A Batch Sparge is a sparge technique where by the brewer will drain all the mash water out of the mash/lauter tun and into the boil kettle. The tun is then filled again with the sparge water, mixed throughly for 5 minutes, then is again drained completely into the kettle. Each time the tun is drained, less and less sugars are being removed, and the runnings are clearer. We will be doing a double batch sparge, which means our tun will batch sparged twice.



Vorlauf

Before each draining of the tun, a brewer will want to do what is called a "Vorlauf". A vorlauf is a fancy German word for recirculating the first few quarts of runnings back into the top of the tun. The grainbed will act as a natural filter when draining the sparge water, however, the first few quarts that exit the tun after mixing will be filled with large amounts of sediment. By collecting this sediment filled wort, and returning it back to the top of the tun, we can use the grainbed to filter this out.

The brewer will need to vorlauf each time the grain bed is disturbed. In our case, we had to do it after collecting the mash water, and then once with each sparge.



Batch Sparging!! (yes I brew barefoot)



There's Something Sexy About a Woman Brewing!



The Boil




Boiling in the Turkey Fryer

Boiling an all grain beer is exactly the same as an extract brew, except for the fact you're boiling a lot more! The burner had a tough time keeping the kettle at a rolling boil with how hard the wind was blowing. We had a preboil volume of 6.5 gallons, and expected a gallon and a half to boil off. However, we only got down to 5.5 gallons. This may leave our beer a little bit weaker then we were expecting. Beersmith had our ABV estimated around 4.8%, however we likely may only reach close to 4.0%. The beer should come out of the primary in a week, so we shall see then.




Just About to Boil!

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Tasting Beer

One thing you have to perfect if you are to become a complete brewer, is how to taste beer. While it doesn't sound that hard, it actually is quite difficult when you don't always know what you're trying to taste for.

Here's what I've gathered so far:

Tasting beer can be broken up into 3 different senses:

Appearance
Smell
Taste

Appearance

What color is the beer? How clear is it? How does it retain it's head?

Color:
Colors of beer range from near clear (Bud Light) to black (Guiness). The color of a beer is determined by the grains that create it. BOTH grain color and beer color are commonly determined on a scale known as Lovibond or abreviated as °L. The Lovibond ranges from a scale of 1 to 600. When one is talking about grains, a Lovibond rating of a few hundred and above is considered quite dark, while when one is talking about beer, anything over 25 is considered to be black. Various beer colors and grain colors.

Clarity:
How much suspended sediment is present in the brew. This is usually known as "Turbidity"

Head Retention:
Carbonation in a beer can add a significant amount of body. I still know a lot of people who drink their beers from a bottle. Unfortunately this is not the way the brewmaster wanted his product to be enjoyed. A good beer is meant to be poured. Pouring helps release a moderate amount of carbonation, which will give beer a more robust aroma, and it helps to release part of the bitterness of the carbonation. A good beer should have a thick white head that leaves a good head lace or "Brussels" on the side of the glass as you drink it.


Smell

What are the scents you recieve after you pour the beer? What is contributed by the grains or other additives? What is contributed by the hops? Can you smell an odor?

Aroma:
Aroma describes the smells of a freshly poured beer that have been contribued by the malts, grains, or anything else besides hops. These aromas are usually described as being malty, nutty, fruity, sweet, grainy, yeasty, etc. I think a trick for the new taster such as myself is being able to pick these out. This is quite challenging at first, because you're tempted to say "It just smells like beer!" Creating my own beer has opened my eyes to the different components of these aromas, and has allowed me to start to smell for them specifically.

Bouquet:
The bouquet of a beer is the contribution from the hops. The bouquet is present initially after the pour, and then rapidly dissipates. Bouquet smells include: piney, citrusy, herbal, spicey, etc.

Odor:
Odor is usually attributed to a defect in the beer. These defects can be such thing as: bleachy, skunky, sulphury, etc.


Taste

What are the flavors present in the beer? Does the beer feel light of heavy in the mouth? What kind of finish does it leave the palate?

Mouthfeel:
The mouthfeel of a beer is the subjective description of how a beer feels in the mouth. This feel is deteremined by the unferementables sugars and proteins in the beer. The 3 categories usually describing mouthfeel is light, medium, or full. I kind of think of it as how thick a beer feels in my mouth.

Flavor:
Flavor for me is still the hardest part of a beer to diagnose. Mainly because I haven't done it that much. When you first take a sip of a beer, make sure you move the drink over all parts of your tongue. This helps to make sure you use all different sections of your taste buds (sweet, salty, etc). Do you taste nutty, fruity, bananaesque, green apples, butter, earthy, etc? Are their strong hop tones? What about malty or yeastiness? Try to distinguish particular flavors that seem familiar.

Finish:
The last part of the beer tasting will be the finish. After the swallow/spit, how does your palate feel? Does the beer leave your mouth with a crisp fresh feeling? What about a bitter hop taste? Does the flavor last for a long time on your palate or quickly dissipate?



In the mail yesterday I recieved a free Killians Irish Red tasting Kit. Inside it has 4 tasting glasses, a nice bottle opener, tasting mat, and a short book on beer tasting. I intend to use this as much as possible! Harrika's Brew House in Cedar Point has a huge amount of craft and smaller brews. I intend to try as many that are there as possible!

If you're still a beginner taster like myself, I suggest finding brew reviews of the beer you have online. Doing this allows you to taste the beer, and compare what you taste to what others are tasting. This has helped me pick out particular flavors that I didn't understand and didn't know how to discern.

Friday, April 10, 2009

Earth Day Organic Ale Recipe

So I've come up with the first original recipe to try. Well...Beersmith helped a lot!

9.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain
0.50 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain
0.75 oz Pallisades [5.00 %] (60 min) Hops 13.9 IBU
1.25 oz Pallisades [5.00 %] (5 min) Hops 4.6 IBU
California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [Starter] Yeast-Ale

April 22nd is the official brew day! Stay tuned for details!

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Gorgeous April

In non-brew news...

North Carolina in the spring is gorgeous! We can't wait till the water temps come up just a bit more to be body surfing in this washing machine! We also can't wait to have all our friends and family come down to visit!


All Grain

So we've decided to all grain for our next brew! The Earth Day Organic Brown Ale will be our first attempt at an all grain beer. I've just completed my Mash Tun and Hot Liquor Tun. Both were created using 5 gallon igloo drink coolers from Walmart ($21). Eventually I'd like to upgrade these to 10 gallon coolers, but for the next few years, I think I'll keep the batches under 5 gallon, and if I want to do a high gravity brew, I'll just have to use some extract as well.

The New Tuns!


Mash Tun Steel Braid

I will also be purchasing a turkey fryer as my new boil kettle. Ace Hardware online has a great deal on a 30qt Bayou Classic Turkey Fryer . This unfortunately will not be used for turkeys...

Since we will be doing 5 gallon full boils now, we will also need a better method for getting our wort to pitching temp. Here comes the wort chiller!

I still have to look into how I want to sparge though. I can't decide on Fly or Batch sparging, and have to weigh the pros and cons soon.

Everything will be ready by April 22nd!

Prost!

Jeremy

Bottle Tags

We spend a good amount of our time trying to get labels off (We hate Amstel Light bottles). The process is relatively easy...just soak in Oxyclean Free and water for 24 hours, but it's still a pain in the but especially for labels that still won't come off. I like the idea of hanging bottle tags for now. I read about them from a post by Revvy on the HBT Forums. They essentially are a tag that slips around the bottles neck, and under the cap. This way you can still show your beer information, while still saving you loads of time on label application and removal. We hope to have our first tag done by the time the Earth Day Organic Ale becomes ready

Revvy's Hanging Bottle Tags

Prost!

Jeremy

Red Ale Bottled

We bottled the Red Ale last weekend. One of the problems we've had while racking is the stupid hose curling up on us all the time. That would usually create problems by introducing oxygen to our beer. Solution: 2 racking canes. We use our auto-siphon (really a tool no home brewer should be without), and I sawed off the curve on the racking cane our kit came with and attached it to the other end of the hose. The result: A very easy way to rack!




Racking to the bottling bucket - Now easier then ever!


In other brew news, our Kolsch is finally drinking worthy! It had a nice taste. Some of the acetylhyde had been cleaned up by the yeast so most of the green apple (Budweiser) taste was gone. It still has a little bit longer to go before it tastes its best, but at the moment, I think it's good to start distribution. A lot of folks around the office keep asking me for free beer.. It's just about time to deliver.

I always get the last of the rackings...

Prost!

Jeremy